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June 24, 2017

ROGER VIVIER

French fashion designer Roger Vivier (1903-1998) is best remembered as a great innovator who specialized in shoes. His most famous design was the stiletto heel, which may be one of the most enduring concepts in the field. He designed for the likes of Marlene Dietrich, The Beatles, and Queen Elizabeth II. One of his earliest ideas (in 1945) had a distinctively 1960s vibe: clear plastic ankle boots! Vivier worked for Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent when the fashion houses launched their footwear divisions. His most memorable 60s works was with YSL, which included the 1965 Pilgrim Pump (featured prominently by actress Catherine Deneuve's in Luis Buñuel's  Belle de Jour in 1967 and with the Mondrian dress on the cover of Vogue/photo David Bailey), and the return of the  transparent boots in 1966. My favorite of their collaborations, however, was this outfit from 1963, which featured long boots (apologies to the crocodiles), leather or tweed square smock with high collar, and visored helmet. The ensemble suggests Honor Blackman and Patrick Macnee's record, Kinky Boots, which reflected in 1964 how the style had caught on like wildfire: "It's a manly kind of fashion that you borrowed from the brutes." South-African born model Enid Boulting looks like she could have been Emma Peel's co-Avenger, or perhaps "filling out a ticket in her little black book." Speaking of Beatles references, Enid was married to director Roy Boulting, who made The Family Way (1966) with score by Paul McCartney. In other news, my episodes of the Cocktail Nation radio show are now live: Episode #1(Danger Man) and Episode #2 (The 10th Victim), Epsiode #3 (On Her Majesty's Secret Service) Episode #4 (Roger Moore/The Saint). Enjoy!



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